WARNING
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Before I begin I want to say that I am in no way responsible for what you do to your own car!
This page is only to be used as a guide to doing a swap, I'm assuming that you have
general knowledge in working with cars, HID kits, and tools in general and if you do not
feel confident then please don't try this at home!

INTRODUCTION
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Halogen Projectors vs. HID Projectors
I don't know if you've noticed but the stock Integra halogen projectors do not output HID light
very well. The halogen projector is designed to work best with halogen lighting and shining HID
light through the projector will not yield the best results.

An HID projector is designed for use with, well, HID lighting. The lense, reflector and light cut-off
shields are all designed to work together to work very efficiently with HID lighting and provide the
best available output of light. HID projectors when used with HID lighting will have a sharp cutoff
at the top of the beam reducing glare towards oncoming traffic and the HID light will be spread
evenly on the ground with virtually no hotspots.



What HID kit will be used and what car does this apply to?
I will be using an HID kit from a 2002 Audi A6 with OSRAM bulbs and Hella made ballasts.
The car that will be used for installation is a 1998 Integra Type R. If you have a different car
or a different HID kit or want further information regarding HID Retrofits, then please refer to
the Automotive Lighting FAQ (http://faq.auto.light.tripod.com).

Test Your HID Kit!
Before you being the retrofit, make sure your OEM HID kit is in perfect working order. You can test
it out by hooking the bulbs up, then touch the negative (black) wire on the ballast to your negative
terminal on the battery, and then the positive (green) wire on the ballst to your positive terminal. This
should light the system up.

WARNING: For safety of yourself and the HID kit, raise the ballast away from any ground on your car, either
have a friend hold it or place something that does not conduct electricity between your car and the ballast.
The reason for this was for some reason my positive and negative wires on my ballasts were reversed and
when I hooked it up to the battery, the system sparked because I was putting negative on positive, and positive
on negative, and with the ballast grounded it was very dangerous!

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
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- Dremel
- Sanding Drums
- Cutting Blades
- Drill with 1/4" Drillbit
- Wirecutters/strippers
- (2) 20A Fuses
- (8) 1/4" bolts (Long bolts) / Locknuts
- Handful of 1/4" Washers
- 1/4" x x035 Round Aluminum (R/C Car Exhaust Piping)
- Electrical Tape
- Heat Gun
- Soldering Iron / Solder
- Shrink Wrap
- High Temperature Black Silicone
- All Clear Purpose Seatant
- Toolbox with Various tools

It is strongly suggested that you have an extra set of hands to help you out with this swap and
make sure you have a lot of free time. Don't attempt if you are limited on type (like a single afternoon).
You will most likely only have one set of headlights and you can't drive in the dark without headlights
so give yourself a lot of time!

Step #1 - Bumper Removal
- Remove 9 black screws lining the top of the bumper with a philips head screwdriver.
- Remove the 2 bolts on the left of the black strip and then ther other 2 on the right.
- Remove the 2 bolts underneath the car that holds the bottom of the bumper to the undercarriage.
- Remove the 2 screws that hold on the ITR lip (two on each side).
- Remove the screw that is right above the screws for the lip (holds the bumper to the fender).
- Remove your turn signals (don't forget about the bulbs)..
- Pull the bumper off each fender carefully. There are a few plastic tabsholding it into place.
- Carefully place bumper in a safe place.



If you need further instructions on removing the bumper please get a Helm's manual (www.helmsinc.com).

Step #2 - Headlight Removal
- Remove highbeam/lowbeam bulbs from housing, place in safe place.
- Remove the two bolts on top of the headlight housing.
- Remove the 2 bolts closest to the bumper on the brackets on the bottom of the headlight housing.
 (Be careful not to lose the metal tabs that hold the bolt against the bracket).



Now that you ahve the headlight housing removed from the car, we can start to have some real fun!

Step #3 - Headlight Disassembly
- Remove all rubber hoses, clamps, rubber lightbulb plug, and the L + R leveling needle.
- Place empty headlight on pan with a cookie sheet. Make sure the headlight does not
  directly touch the oven or it will melt! DO NOT PLACE headlight in oven yet.
- Preheat the oven to 400 Degrees (F)
- TURN OFF oven and place headlight in the oven for 10 minutes
- When the cute timer goes off carefully remove the headlight and use a butter knife to
  pry open the housing. Start at one end and slowly slide butter knife along while a friend
  pulls the headlight apart. BE CAREFUL, the headlight housing will most likely be hot, and
  also try not to scratch up the high beam reflector with the butter knife.




- Now with the headlight housing pulled apart, remove the two aiming bolts on the back of the assembly.
- Now on the front side of the headlight, push in the black plastic round tab on the bracket between
  the low and high beams to free the housing from the bracket.
- The bracket holding the low/high beam should now be pulled apart from the housing.



- Remove the 3 gold philips screws that hold on the high beam reflector.
- Remove the front lense (and round bracket holding) it on with the 2 screws on the front
  of the low beam projector.
- Remove the lowbeam reflector housing by removing the screws on the back of the lowbeam
  assembly.
- Now all you'll have is a bare headlight bracket

Step #4 - Cutting Stock Projector Housing
- Now that you have just a bare bracket, use your dremel and cutting blade and start
  to cut at the bottom of the housing all the way around the base of the lowbeam bracket.
  Make sure you get as close as possible to the bracket and make sure you cut evenly.
- You must also cut the two vertical beams that are at perpendicular to the lowbeam bracket.



- Once you have removed your stock projector housing, flip it over and cut the corner out of the raised
  square block that holds the aiming screw. Make sure you make the corner big enough for a 1/4" bolt,
  and make sure you don't cut past the white plastic tab!



Step #5 - Drill New Mounting Holes
- Now take the Audi Projector and remove the reflector housing from the whole unit and also
  remove the cut off shield, D2S bulb and place everything in a safe place!
- Now on the backside of the reflector housing, using your drill and a 1/4" bit, drill the existing
  4 holes where the reflector and the lense bracket were held on. Go slow, and be very careful because
  the reflector housing is very fragile so we don't want to crack or break it!



This next steps are kinda tricky and I really don't know how better to explain it but you just
have to use your best judgement.

- Place the reflector housing against the back of the bracket and use your sharpie and mark the 4
  mounting holes on the bracket with the 4 holes you drilled on the reflector. Remember, the cut-off
  shield on the reflector should be on the bottom, and the green level on the bracket should be upright.
- Cut 8 one inch sections of the R/C Exhaust piping.
- Now place your long bolts into the holes of the reflector housing going from the front of the reflector
  to the back where the opening of the bolts should be on the back of the reflector and the head is on
  the front.
- Place each one inch section of R/C piping on the bolts.
- Now place the bolts against the front of the bracket and mark the holes where you need to drill.
- Use the notch that you cut out earlier as a guide to where the first hole will go, as for the rest
  just play around with it to make sure that the reflector is going to be horizontally and vertically
  straight on the mounting bracket.
- Now that you have your mounting spots, carefully drill holes into the bracket.
- Once your holes are drilled put the bolts through the bracket, you'll want the One inch R/C piping
  to be flush with the bracket, but you'll notice that at first the piping won't hit the bracket because the reflector
  will not fit into the bracke. You must use your dremel and sanding drum to widen up the opening so that the
  R/C section will be flush.
- Once everything is lined up and the projector sits snug inside the bracket reattach your HID unit (lense/bracket)
  and tighten everything up snug, don't overtighten because you could break something!

  Note: Use your washers to make the top and bottom mounting spots level with each other, and remember
  when widening the opening for the reflector to sit in, be very careful so you don't mess up the
  mounting holes!

  Note: The One inch piping will allow the projector to stick a little further out than the stock projector.
  It is okay to have the HID Projector stick about 1/4 - 1/2" forward because it will allow as much light
  to escape the housing as possible.

  Note: If your bolts are hanging too much off the back of the reflector, simply cut them to the distance shown in the
  pictures below.

  Note: It is very crucial that the projector is horizontally and vertically straight or you'll have a cockeyed system.

  Note: It is also very important to clean the lense and reflector housing before you attach everything, this
  ensures the best available light output.



Step #6 - Headlight Reassembly
- Once you have the new projector mounted, we can start to put everything back together. Reattach the stock
  high beam reflector housing.
- Place your bracket inside the headlight housing make sure there is enough clearance for the back of the reflector housing
 and the headlight housing.
- Reattach the aiming bolts, they are long bolts so make sure they go in a pretty good amount.
- Line up the hole for the round black plastic tab and push the bracket against the tab, there are notches on the tab
  so make sure that fully locks up.

Note: Make sure the mounting circles on the back of the unit is accessible and straight to allow the high beam
and lowbeam connectors to attach properly. Also, if your HID Projector is too far forward, you have to move it back
enough to alow the HID connector to attach.

  

- Now replace and reattach all of the hoses, levels, and rubber boots to the back of the housing.

The OEM glue should be more than enough to reattach the headlight housing, but I wanted to ensure a proper
seal so that water doesn't condensate inside so I also used clear all weather sealant.

- Heat up OEM Glue with a heat gun.
- Squeeze the clear sealant around the housing, then attach the back of the housing to the front and press hard. Make
  sure all of the plastic tabs are locked.
- Once your headlight is attached, you can place the D2S HID bulb inside the housing VERY carefully. It should have
  notches to make it line up properly, but for the idiots out there, the black wire on the bulbshould be facing down!

Note: Make sure your lense clears the front of the headlight housing before reattaching, if it doesn't you might
bend the projector when pressing the headlight housing together!

Step #7 - HID Ballast Wiring & Mounting

You do not have to follow these exact steps, this just ensures a good connection and a professional look.
Warning: Please make sure you disconnect your negative terminal so you don't shock yourself!

- Cut your OEM headlight harness right below the white plastic tab.
- Strip the plastic about an inch off of both wires.
- Strip an inch of plastic off of each wire on the ballasts as well.
- Place some shrinkwrap on the ballast wire and move it all the way back to get it out of the way.
- Fan out the the wires on the OEM harness and the HID ballasts.
- Place the positive wire from your harness to the positive wire on your ballast, twist them together tight.
- Use your soldering gun and solder the connection together to ensure the best current.
- Once it is cool, run the shinkwrap over the connection and using a lighter heat it up until it "shrinks" over the connection.
- Do the same to the negative ground wire.
- Once completed, electrical tape the wires together to make it look nice and neat.
- Do the same for the other side of the car.